ALL of our parts come standard in a white gel coat. They are not primed or painted. To prepare the parts for painting you will need to lightly hand sand them to knock down the shine of the gel coat. From there you can prime/paint them as if they were a standard sheet metal body panel.
Installation will vary by model, but this general guideline will assist you in the process. Start by removing your existing OEM fenders. Be sure to save, and organize your OEM bolts as you remove them, they will be used in the installation process. We also like to run a few pieces of blue tape along the door jamb to protect the paint. The first step is to remove the headlights. Behind the headlights there’s typically a few fender mounting bolts that will now be able to accessible and will need to be removed. Next focus your attention on the hood/fender line, there’s going to be 3-5 bolts in this area that will need to be removed.
The next couple bolts are a little tricky; the first one is going to only be accessible from inside your cab. Open your door half way to gain access to this bolt and be sure to have a long ratchet extension handy.
You’ll need to get under the truck for the next bolt; it’s in the lower most rear corner of the fender. This should take care of all of the fender mounts. You’ll need to now remove the inner wheel well liner from the fender. It’s typically held on by clips, screws, or tabs.
Chevy Silverado’s and 80-96 F-150’s are slightly different than all other installs. For these trucks you will need to split the outer fender from the inner fender. To do this you will need to drill out all of the spot welds around the perimeter of the fenders. Our fenders will then install on to the inner fender using your hardware. To install your new fiberglass fenders, reverse the process! You will need to drill out the mounting holes. Be sure to use a drill bit that is larger than actual bolt size. This will allow you to make minor adjustments before you finalize and tighten down your fenders. This is the time to look at the body lines and door gap. You may need to push, pull or lean on the fenders to get them in to the optimal position, a friend is extremely helpful for this. If you run in to a place that doesn’t seem to be lining up, look at the back side of the fender to see why. When the fenders are pulled from the mold they are trimmed and occasionally they will need a bit more trimming.
To start with the bedside installation consider the option of removing your bed. While this is not an absolute must, it can make the process a bit easier. You will then need to remove the tail lights, and bumper. The factory bed skins are held on via numerous spot welds around their perimeter. We highly recommend using a spot weld cutter to remove these spot welds, it will make your life a lot easier! Once your factory bedsides have been removed you will be left with a bare inner bed structure. Start by hanging your new fiberglass bedside over the bed rail. This is the time to start the alignment process. You may need to trim a bit more off the inner bed, or the fiberglass as you work the bedside into its final location. Use the body lines on the cab, and the tail light as reference points. Once your happy with the alignment, begin bolting the bedside into place. 4 evenly spaced bolts along the inner bed rail are sufficient. Also plan on 2-3 bolts along the flange on the front portion of the bed, as well as a bolt or two in the the area that wraps around your tail light. The final step of the installation process is to secure the front and rear portion of the wheel well. These supports are in all trucks straight from the factory. There is not cut and dry way to do this step, but use what is on your truck already for inspiration. It can be as easy as cutting and splicing the existing supports, or you could go as far as fabricating your own custom mounts. This step is very important and if not done properly can lead to cracking and other issues.
One Piece Hood
Start by removing your hood and hood hinges, the new 1 piece will not utilize the factory hinges. Next step will be to remove your fenders (see fender section above for reference). After these items are removed start the install by mounting your mini fenders. The mini fenders typically allow you to use 2 factory mounting locations, 1 would be at the lower rear portion of where the fender was, and the other location is behind the door. You will need to access this bolt location from inside cab with the door halfway open. We also recommend some extra support where the mini fender latches to the cab. This area is more or less floating and can benefit from extra support from either a tube with a tab, or an L bracket. When mounting your mini fenders be sure to dill out your bolt holes slightly larger than the actual bolt to allow room for adjustment.
Now that your mini fenders are loosely mounted (allowing room for adjustment) it’s time to move on to the hood itself. Set the rear of the hood down on to the mini fenders and slowly lower the front of the hood down to the headlights. You’ll likely need a spacer at the front of the hood for proper mock up alignment, a couple pieces of wood works great. Once you’ve got the front of the hood aligned with the head lights, it’s time to install your latches. The latches have a latch, and a clasp portion. The latch goes on the mini fenders, and the clasp goes on the hood. Drill out the 6 mounting holes and rivet or bolt the latches to the fiberglass. Blue painters tape helps to keep everything in place.
Now that the hood is sitting in roughly, its final position, we need to address the hood pins. Proper placement of the hood pins is crucial. Too far out and the center of the hood can catch the wind, too far in and the outside of the hood catches the wind! The ideal spacing for the hood pins is going to be roughly the width of your grille. This is not an exact science, use your best judgement. The actual way to mount the pins will vary by model. With some vehicles you’re able to mount the hood pins directly to the radiator core support, and with others you will need to build risers. If you’ve got a vehicle that you’re doing a conversion 1 piece on you will need to fabricate a frame structure to mount the lights and grille off of. There are a lot of vehicles that have header panels, which greatly simplifies the mounting process. If there is not a header panel available, you will need to fabricate your own mounts.
Installing one of our custom dash’s is a great way to clean up the interior of your race truck. The inside of our dash’s is a mirror image of the outside, so you are left with ample room for wiring and accessories. We leave a decent sized flange to allow you to trim to fit your specific vehicle layout. On the dash itself, there are no specific mounting points. You will need to fabricate mounting points off your cage work and/or cab to secure the dash. Simple tabs with dzus fasteners or fender washers are sufficient. If you’re planning on mounting a shifter to the dash, a steel or aluminum backing plate is recommended.
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